Skip to main content

Ordering new seacocks

Now that the boat is on the hard, the first big project is to replace all the seacocks. Some are still originals (30 years old), others were replaced some time ago with brass and are in a bad shape. There are basically three materials that are considered appropriate for using them as seacocks (or skin fittings and ball valves):
  • Bronze
  • DZR/CR brass
  • Composite plastic
After some research we came to the conclusion to use DZR (Dezincification Resistant) brass for the new seacocks. In some places it's also called CR (Corrosion Resistant) brass or labeled as CW602N. Sadly the Swedish chandleries doesn't sell those. We could only find CW617N, which has regular zinc content and is not corrosion resistant. It's suitable for freshwater systems only and in a heavily salted environment will last only a few years before it becomes brittle and can break, so it's not an option for a bluewater boat. Some shops have brons and composite plastic (from Tru-Design), but they are much more expensive than DZR brass and some of the fittings needed on our boat are hard to find. The Tru-Design valves are also bigger than the others, so you need more space to fit them. We decided to go with Maestrini CR-brass seacocks. They are manufactured in Italy, can be found in several shops in the UK and Germany. We ordered most parts from SVB24 from Germany (they had the most competitive prices) and the rest, like lock nuts, a 38mm hose fitting and a T-piece from various places, making sure it's CR-brass and possibly Maestrini. In general ASAP-Supplies has the best selection of various sizes and pieces, but sadly their website was broken for weeks at the time we was ordering. Before ordering I measured all the hoses and hose fittings and the outer dimensions (OD) of the skin fitting threads. Then I used this table to identify the correct seasock sizes in inches (OD actual to pipe thread size). Ann-Riis has 6 skin fittings under the waterline (besides the depth/log transducers, but that's for a later project): Galley 1. seawater intake (1/2") 2. kitchen sink and bilge pump outlet (1 1/4") Head 3. sink outlet (1/2") 4. toilet flush water intake (1/2") 5. toilet waste outlet (1 1/4") Engine room 6. Cockpit drain (2") There is one more seacock on the Volvo Penta S-120 saildrive for the engine raw water intake, and it's still the original gate-valve with a plastic handle. It's quite stuck and difficult to close, so it's time to replace that too. It's going to be a non-genuine replacement from YachtBoatParts UK, with a 90 degree elbow fitting. Thanks Chris from @SailingBritaly for the tip! We decided to keep the existing plumbing layout and just replace the fittings and hoses with brand new. Drawings are helpful to see clearly which parts needs to be ordered. Here is the plan:

The toilet layout is rather unusual and was already like this, but it seemed to work so we will stick with it. With the T-piece and two ball valves it's possible to direct the waste towards the tank or overboard right at the toilet. The same hose and outlet can be used for draining the tank overboard if needed. The Y valve at the tank selects the direction between the deck pump-out or sending it overboard.

There is some unusualness in the galley too. The bilge pump connects to the siphon of the sink with a loop above the waterline and drains overboard in the sink water outlet. I think it's a good solution as the sink drain is quite large and there is no need for drilling one more hole. I plan to upgrade the bilge pump to a stronger one though. There is a separate hose for the manual bilge pump that exits above the water line. Hopefully the weather will stay warm enough to use the sealants, so the job can be completed before the winter.


Popular posts from this blog

Bilge reinforcement - Part 2

Read Part 1
After careful surface preparation the bilge reinforcement project continued with laying the new laminate. I consulted with West System on what fabric to use and they suggested biaxial cloth without chopped strand matting. The biaxial cloth is very strong and CSM would just add weight. We bought 600g biaxial cloth with 45/45 degree strands from Composite24 and West System 105 epoxy with 206 fast hardener at a local marine store.
Cutting fabric
The work was done in sections, we started with the bilge bottom/floor while the keel nuts and washers were removed. It got 4 layers that come up 10cm at the bilge sides. This area gets most of the loads and we wanted to reinforce it by connecting the fabric on the bottom to the one to be layed on the sides.

In theory these types of reinforcements are suggested to be done either with the keel dropped or while the keel is hanging so it's not compressing the joint while the boat is standing on the keel. The idea is to avoid building …

Bilge reinforcement - Part 1

Ann-Riis had delamination at the floor beam to hull attachments probably due to earlier groundings and we could also see the swinging/pendulum keel symptom when the boat was transported with the keel hanging. It was time to do something about it. The plan is to reinforce the whole keel-to-hull joint with 3-4 layers of 600g biaxial fiberglass cloth, re-bond the floor beams to the hull with at least 6 layers and add new structural members to stiffen up the construction against side loads.


In the fall of 2019 we started the keel/bilge reinforcement project. It took several weekends to sand everything and it was probably the most difficult boat work (or any type of work really 😃) I ever did. I covered the working area with plastic protective foil, but it didn't do much. The fiberglass dust was so intense that after a while the tape holding the foil was falling off and the dust covered every corner of the boat. I killed one orbital sander and one vacuum cleaner during …

Electrical refit - Part 1

The electrical system on the boat was in a very sad condition and needed a refit. As it's often the case on older boats, the previous owners just added new stuff without really improving the system or thinking it through. Worst of all, they didn't used marine grade materials or did the installation right either. They just applied quick fixes and left it that way. We were planning to rewire the boat completely during this fall, but as it turned out, it couldn't wait. When I started the engine before heading out for a one week sail, the battery warning light came up. According to the manual the light might indicate incorrect voltage from the generator. When I checked it with a multi-meter, it was very high indeed, well over 15V, so it was overcharging the batteries, which carries the risk of gas leakage or explosion. So we decided to investigate it further and delay our departure for vacation. After disconnecting the house bank, the alternator output normalized, so we conc…