Skip to main content

Ordering new seacocks

Now that the boat is on the hard, the first big project is to replace all the seacocks. Some are still originals (30 years old), others were replaced some time ago with brass and are in a bad shape. There are basically three materials that are considered appropriate for use as seacocks:
  • Bronze
  • DZR/CR brass
  • Composite plastic
After some research we came to the conclusion to use DZR (Dezincification Resistant) brass for the new seacocks. In some places it's also called CR (Corrosion Resistant) brass or labeled as CW602N. Sadly the Swedish chandleries don't sell those. We could only find CW617N, which has regular zinc content and is not corrosion resistant. It's suitable for freshwater systems only and in a salted environment will last only a few years before it becomes brittle and can break, so it's not an option for a bluewater boat. Some shops have bronze and composite plastic (from Tru-Design), but they are much more expensive than DZR brass and some of the fittings (like a T piece) needed on our boat are hard to find. The Tru-Design valves are also bigger than the others, so you need more space to fit them. We decided to go with Maestrini CR-brass seacocks. They are manufactured in Italy and can be found in several shops in the UK and Germany. We ordered most parts from SVB24 from Germany (they had the most competitive prices) and the rest, like lock nuts, a 38mm hose fitting and a T-piece from various places, making sure it's CR-brass and possibly Maestrini. In general ASAP-Supplies has the best selection of various sizes and pieces, but sadly their website was broken for weeks at the time we were ordering. Before ordering I measured all the hoses and hose fittings and the outer dimensions (OD) of the skin fitting threads. Then I used this table to identify the correct seasock sizes in inches (OD actual to pipe thread size). We have 6 skin fittings under the waterline (besides the depth/log transducers, but that's for a later project): Galley 1. seawater intake (1/2") 2. kitchen sink and bilge pump outlet (1 1/4") Head 3. sink outlet (1/2") 4. toilet flush water intake (1/2") 5. toilet waste outlet (1 1/4") 6. Cockpit drain (2") There is one more seacock on the Volvo Penta S-120 saildrive for the engine raw water intake, and it's still the original gate-valve with a plastic handle. It's stuck and difficult to close, so it's time to replace that too. It's going to be a non-genuine replacement from YachtBoatParts UK, with a 90 degree elbow fitting. Thanks Chris from @SailingBritaly for the tip! We decided to keep the existing plumbing layout and just replace the fittings and hoses with brand new. Drawings are helpful to see clearly which parts needs to be ordered. Here is the plan:

The toilet layout is rather unusual and was already like this, but it seemed to work so we will stick with it. With the T-piece and two ball valves it's possible to direct the waste towards the tank or overboard right at the toilet. The same hose and outlet can be used for draining the tank overboard if needed. The Y valve at the tank selects the direction between the deck pump-out or sending it overboard.

There is some unusualness in the galley too. The bilge pump connects to the siphon of the sink with a loop above the waterline and drains overboard in the sink water outlet. I think it's a good solution as the sink drain is quite large and there is no need for drilling one more hole. I plan to upgrade the bilge pump though. There is a separate hose for the manual bilge pump that exits above the water line. Hopefully the weather will stay warm enough to use the sealants, so the job can be completed before the winter.


Popular posts from this blog

Scanmar bilge and swinging keel

The Scanmars, at least the SC33 and SC35 that I'm aware of, are infamous of developing a swinging/pendulum keel due to the lack of structural members in the bilge that could prevent the hull from flexing sideways at the hull to keel joint. Here is an article (in Swedish) that mentions this problem (svajköl) and here is another one from a surveyor who claims it's a weakness in the construction. The "stringers" on these boats are only floor beams, that are not going down deep enough to the bilge to act as a structural element. If the boat had harder groundings the attachments of the floor beams could delaminate from the hull, making the hull-keel joint even weaker and the swinging keel symptom worse. When we were on a boat hunt we've checked out almost all the SC33 on the market at the time and paid attention to how their bilges looked like (and in the end bought a SC35 without reinforcements 😄). As the bilge on the SC33 and SC35 looks very similar, I thoug

New bowsprit installed

Last weekend we finally installed our new bowsprit. It's the MultiMarine / Ocean Comfort model with an anchor roller, made from 32mm AISI316 stainless steel and teak and measures 115x52cm. The reason we choose this particular type is that we wanted a bowsprit to be able to carry our new Delta anchor (after we finish the anchor windlass installation) and provide an attachment for the tack of a gennaker a bit further ahead of the bow. Some added benefits are that it's possible to add a ladder to it to help with onboarding from rocky shores and sit out there and enjoy the ride when the weather is nice.  The other alternative on the market would have been a similar model from Båtsystem, which is a bit more sturdy but costs more than double. The installation wasn't particularly tricky, although there we absolutely no instructions in the box and unfortunately the kit was lacking some nuts and backing plates so we had to run to a hardware store to get them. We used cargo belts fro

Bilge reinforcement - Part 2

Read Part 1 After careful surface preparation the bilge reinforcement project continued with laying the new laminate. I consulted with West System on what fabric to use and they suggested biaxial cloth without chopped strand matting. The biaxial cloth is very strong and CSM would just add weight. We bought 600g biaxial cloth with 45/45 degree strands from Composite24 and West System 105 epoxy with 206 fast hardener at a local marine store. Cutting fabric The work was done in sections, we started with the bilge bottom while the keel nuts and washers were removed. It got 4 layers that come up 10cm at the bilge sides. This area gets most of the load and we wanted to reinforce it by connecting the fabric on the bottom to the fabric layed on the sides. 4 layers on the bottom In theory these types of reinforcements are suggested to be done either with the keel dropped or while the keel is hanging so it's not compressing the joint while the boat is standing on th